Whether received as a wedding gift or inherited through the generations, watches often hold a special meaning for us. Maybe you bought a timepiece from the year of your birth or to mark some other significant milestone in your life? Whatever the case, older watches tend to come with a story that is imbued with emotion and sentimental value. This is one of the reasons why vintage watches have long been popular among watch enthusiasts and collectors.
At what point is a watch considered vintage?
There is no objective definition of vintage. Some experts call anything made before 1990 vintage, while others insist the watch must predate 1980. If a watch is over 100 years old, it’s generally considered an antique. But again, there is no singular definition of a vintage watch.
Most lovers of older watches value the fact that their timepiece has developed a patina or signs of wear, such as faded indices or a discolored bezel. To ensure its retro vibes remain intact, it’s preferred that vintage watches aren’t subjected to extensive polishing or revision. After all, scratches on the case only add to the watch’s story. Here, we’re presenting six popular vintage models from well-known manufacturers that you’ll find readily available on Chrono24.
1. Rolex GMT-Master
A classic among wristwatches, the Rolex GMT-Master has been enjoying a renaissance for some time now. The model’s multicolored bezel, complete with a 24-hour scale, is extremely popular and has turned the successor model, the GMT-Master II, into one of the most sought-after watches from the brand. The ref. 1675 is one of the earlier variants from the series. This watch was produced from the late 1950s to the early 1980s. Even then, the watch featured a Pepsi bezel, automatic caliber, Oyster bracelet, and namesake GMT function.
The vast majority of original GMT-Masters now have faded bezels and indices. Watches with discolored Pepsi bezels are highly sought-after collector’s items and continue to fetch sky-high prices on the secondary market. As you’d expect, prices for these vintage charmers are steep at around $30,000. Expect to see prices north of $100,000 for some particularly rare pieces from the 1950s and 60s.
2. Vintage Audemars Piguet
When you hear Audemars Piguet, you likely think of futuristic designs and superlatives galore. There is no denying that these timepieces are among the best of the best, but AP wasn’t always known for futuristic creations. The Cal. 2003, for instance, is an unusual vintage unisex watch that was produced in the 1960s and 70s. With its 32-mm yellow gold case and extraordinarily tidy dial, you’d be forgiven for thinking it was born of another watchmaker.
The watch does without any unnecessary extras, featuring nothing but the company name, line indices, a “Swiss Made” inscription, and hands. Inside, you’ll find the manual-winding caliber 2003. Audemars Piguet debuted this movement in 1952, at which point it was deemed the thinnest manual caliber to date – a title it held for over half a century.
If you’re a fan of retro 1960s and 70s styling, this AP would be right at home on your wrist. Expect to see prices between $3,000 and 7,500, depending on the watch’s condition and accessories.
3. Omega Speedmaster Pre-Moonwatch
If there is one watch that deserves a spot in every collection, it’s the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This famous timepiece was the first to land on the Moon, earning itself a place in the history of haute horlogerie. The vintage Moonwatch ref. 105.012-65 is a manual chronograph with a 42-mm case and sporty steel bracelet that is well-suited to out-of-this-world adventures.
The ref. 105.012-65 was only produced in 1966 and 1967, making it a little older than the “real” Moonwatch that accompanied Buzz Aldrin to the lunar surface in 1969. Apart from this iconic history-by-association, this retro version has a lot to offer for a watch that is well-over 50 years old now. The Speedmaster is a chronograph with a small seconds at 9 o’clock. It also features the famous “dot over 90” on its tachymeter bezel – a small detail that collectors love. The design of the Speedmaster has hardly changed in all the subsequent years; its timeless look has literally never gone out of style.
Used examples of the ref. 105.012-65 can be found on Chrono24 for an average of $12,000. Particularly pristine copies and full sets can see prices closer to $30,000.
4. Rolex Submariner
The Submariner Date ref. 1680 is the first Sub that Rolex equipped with a date function. The reference was produced from 1967 until around 1980. Like its predecessors and successors, this timepiece boasts the distinctive and iconic dive-watch look that we have known and loved since 1954. Its 40-mm case is in Rolex’s patented Oyster construction. At the time of production, the case was water-resistant to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft), but you can’t expect vintage models to maintain those levels over time.
Submariners from this era remain beloved among enthusiasts. A favorite variant features a red Submariner inscription on its dial. These so-called “red dials” were produced until around 1975. While most Submariner Date ref. 1680s are made of stainless steel, there are also versions with cases and bracelets made of 18-karat yellow gold available.
Like nearly all Rolex watches, the caliber (1570 or 1575) is COSC-certified. Depending on the exact year, you can find a Sub of this vintage for anywhere between $18,500 and 47,000. Particularly well-preserved variants, and those made of gold, can set you back more than $100,000.
5. Cartier Panthère
While searching through Cartier’s vintage archives, you’ll inevitably come across the Panthère collection. A star in the 1980s, this watch instantly became a fashion icon. A Panthère timepiece is as much a statement piece of jewelry as a watch.
The Panthère ref. W25030B6 captures this vintage charm and transports it to the modern era. The 30-mm two-tone case made of steel and yellow gold is paired with Roman numerals and a coordinating two-tone bracelet, giving the Panthère a decidedly elegant look. The watch is powered by a quartz caliber offering high levels of precision.
You can get your hands on a stylish luxury women’s watch with vintage charm for around $2,600.
6. Longines 1960 Legend Diver
Swiss manufacturer Longines has a special vintage watch in its archives for those who want the utmost in 20th-century charm: the 1960 Legend Diver (ref. 7042). This 42-mm stainless steel watch features an interior bezel and eye-catching crowns at 2 and 4 o’clock. The black dial is printed with line indices, which are interrupted by Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12.
The automatic caliber 19AS from Longines ensures a precise and reliable time display. This retro men’s watch offers everything you could hope for from a vintage timepiece. Prices run around $9,000.
With that, we end our list of fascinating vintage watches. You can find listings for all of these references, among many others, on Chrono24. If you’re interested in any of the watches on this list, be sure to pay close attention to the details in the listing to ensure you’re getting a high-quality and authentic vintage charmer.
