For decades, the world of luxury watches has been dominated by a few traditional manufacturers like Rolex, Omega, and Patek Philippe. But alongside these renowned names, more and more young watch brands are joining the ranks. Many of these brands successfully combine the traditional art of watchmaking with new technologies or utilize unique materials in innovative ways. They also impress with fresh, modern designs, cutting-edge technology, and excellent value for money. The new players are helping to ensure that the industry remains innovative and dynamic. Moreover, the companies often have the advantage of being able to react quickly to trends and meet customer needs without neglecting precision craftsmanship. Even if they are less well-known by laymen, these manufacturers enjoy a high level of recognition among collectors and watch enthusiasts. In this article, we present five up-and-coming watch brands that are likely to gain even more recognition in the coming years – each in its own unique way.
Norqain – Tradition Meets Sporty Design
The watch brand Norqain is still young, being founded in 2018 by Ben Küffer in Nidau, a center of the Swiss watch industry. Küffer, who comes from a family with a long tradition in the watch industry, aimed to create an independent brand that stands for high-quality, traditional Swiss watchmaking. At the same time, he wanted to give the timepieces modern and sporty designs. He was supported in his efforts by industry expert Ted Schneider, son of the former Breitling boss, and Mark Streit, former NHL player and brand ambassador. Within a very short space of time, Norqain succeeded in establishing itself on the market as an up-and-coming brand. Norqain positions itself as a luxury watch brand for adventurers and outdoor enthusiasts. (Read a detailed brand portrait here) The company values independence and relies on movements from its own production, which are created in collaboration with the Swiss manufacturer Kenissi. The Norqain catalog consists of the Adventure, Freedom, and Independence collections. Within the Adventure line, the Neverest diving watch is popular with fans of the brand, while lovers of classically designed chronographs prefer the Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono. The Independence series, on the other hand, offers more experimental timepieces for individualists. One example is the Norqain Independence Skeleton.
Ming – Contemporary, Minimalist Style
The independent watch brand Ming was founded in 2017 by Malaysian photographer and watch enthusiast Ming Thein. Despite its short history, the brand has successfully established itself on the watch market. Ming’s recipe for success blends contemporary and minimalist designs with traditional Swiss watchmaking. The unique look of Ming watches is dominated by geometric shapes and clear lines. Due to the overall aesthetic of the timepieces, Ming is primarily aimed at a discerning target group of watch collectors who value modern, innovative technology in addition to looks. The brand focuses on small, limited series and a close connection to the watch community. The watches are manufactured in Switzerland, with Ming working closely with various renowned Swiss movement manufacturers such as ETA and Schwarz Etienne. The 17.01 series, the first-ever collection, was met with great interest among watch fans right from the start. Since then, Ming has attracted even more attention with further collections like the 20.01 and 27.01.
Hautlence – Innovative, Colorful, and Playful
The history of the Hautlence watch brand dates back to 2004, when entrepreneur Guillaume Tetu founded the company based in the Swiss town of Neuchâtel. The brand is known for its innovative watchmaking ideas. The brand’s timepieces are characterized by complex, often playful case shapes, skeletonized dials, and colorful designs. Hautlence regularly develops new concepts that deviate from classic designs and functions. These include complications and displays such as jumping hours and retrograde minutes. The latter can be found on the HL Ti 2 model, which was launched in 2011, among others. Some of the brand’s watches, such as the Hautlence Tourbillon 01, are also equipped with a tourbillon, while others have a decentralized time display. One example is the Hautlence HL 04. Hautlence’s movements come from several renowned Swiss manufacturers and are further developed in-house. The brand relies on a combination of in-house components and purchased movements from specialized Swiss manufacturers such as Soprod and La Joux-Perret.
Furlan Marri – From Kickstarter to Success
Founded in 2021 via a Kickstarter campaign, the Furlan Marri watch brand has established itself in the watch world in a very short space of time. The brand was founded by the Swiss industrial designer Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al Marri, a Saudi Arabian business manager. Both founders share a great passion for vintage watches, which are characterized by timeless designs. The Furlan Marri collection is classic and elegant, combining the designs of days gone by with modern manufacturing technologies. The first watch from the company was a chronograph with a MecaQuartz caliber, whose look is strongly reminiscent of the design of the “Patek Philippe 1463 Tasti Tondi.” Furlan Marri offers this style of timepiece under the names Castagna and Rosso Grigio. The Mechanical collection, on the other hand, includes wristwatches equipped with mechanical calibers. The company primarily sources these from Swiss movement manufacturers La Joux-Perret and ETA. Mechanical watches from Furlan Marri can be found in the Mare, Disco, and Sector ranges, as well as the Nero Sabbia and Outback Elegy models. In summary, Furlan Marri offers high-quality watches that are inspired by classics from days long gone. The value for money is excellent for what is on offer.
Gerald Charles – Modern Genta Design
Founded in 2000 by the renowned watch designer Gérald Genta, the Gerald Charles watch brand places the designer’s creative vision in a new context. The brand combines innovative shapes with traditional elements of Swiss watchmaking. A special design feature of Gerald Charles watches are cases that are characterized by soft lines and asymmetrical shapes. The watches from Gerald Charles can be found in the two core collections Maestro and Masterlink. The former combines a whole range of ultra-flat, three-hand watches and chronographs made of precious metals or titanium, some of which have skeletonized dials. The Masterlink collection, in turn, includes two timepieces whose case design is based on that of the Maestro, but with an integrated bracelet. The Masterlink Blue is equipped with a blue dial, while the Masterlink Silver has a silver dial. On the caliber side of things, only in-house calibers are used, which are produced in Gerald Charles’ ateliers.
Summary
Whether it’s exclusivity, innovation, or excellent value for money, each of these five brands has its own unique potential to occupy a meaningful position in the luxury watch market in the future. This means that there is a good chance that the respective timepieces will retain their value or even increase in value over time. As a collector or investor, it would be wise to keep an eye on these up-and-comers.
