The Rolex Datejust and the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M are among the best-known luxury watches in their category. Both models combine sporty elegance with technical precision. While the iconic Datejust looks back on an 80-year history, the Aqua Terra, launched in 2002, is still relatively new on the market and represents a sportier maritime alternative to the Datejust. In this comparison, we’re taking a closer look at the history, design, technology, and value retention of both models.
Rolex Datejust and Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M: History
Rolex presented the Datejust back in 1945 on the occasion of its 40th anniversary. Since then, it has been synonymous with elegance and sporty aesthetics and is considered the prototypical sporty dress watch for style-conscious watch wearers. At the time, the Datejust was the first wristwatch with an automatic date display. The watch is characterized by a Cyclops lens that enlarges the date at 3 o’clock; it only entered the collection in 1953. The Jubilee bracelet, which was specially developed for this model and represents sportiness combined with luxury perhaps like no other, is a style-defining feature. The Rolex Datejust has been worn by presidents of the United States of America, among others. There is evidence that Dwight D. Eisenhower owned a Datejust ref. 6305 made of 18-karat gold. Ronald Reagan was also seen wearing a Datejust in later years. But American presidents were not the only ones to wear the Datejust. Winston Churchill and Konrad Adenauer also treated themselves to the functional luxury watch from Geneva.
Aqua Terra 150M: The Young Challenger
Omega introduced the Aqua Terra 150M collection in 2002, expanding the successful Seamaster collection with this line. The Aqua Terra combines sporty elegance with a luxurious aesthetic. The name “Aqua Terra” – Latin for water and earth – reflects the versatility of the watch, which is designed for both maritime activities and everyday life on land. The collection has been continuously developed over the past few years. The Master Co-Axial caliber 8508 introduced in 2013 and the Aqua Terra 150M Ultra Light presented in 2019 are probably the most important innovations within the series. The Aqua Terra is also very popular with celebrities. One of the most famous wearers is Daniel Craig, who wore the watch both privately and on the silver screen. For example, Craig could be seen wearing an Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial ref. 231.10.42.21.03.004 in the 2012 James Bond film “Skyfall.”
Models, Functions, and Design
As with all Rolex collections, the Datejust was developed with great care. Three hands for hours, minutes, and seconds as well as a date: In terms of function, virtually nothing has changed in the Datejust up to 2025. While the date change of early calibers still took place over several hours, more modern movements offer a jumping date change with quick correction. In terms of design, the Datejust remains the Datejust. The dial has always been characterized by applied indices and, for many decades, Roman numerals or diamonds, while the Rolex crown is located at 12 o’clock. The square, baton-style hands for hours and minutes have also been present since time immemorial. The eponymous date and magnifying glass are located at the 3 o’clock position. The original fluted bezel or a polished bezel and a Jubilee or Oyster bracelet complete the design of the Datejust. In terms of size, you have a wide choice for the Datejust. In spring 2025, Rolex will be offering the model in 28, 31, 36, and 41-mm case sizes. Variants with a case diameter of 36 mm are based on the original size as it was introduced in 1945. When it comes to materials, there are numerous metals and combinations to choose from, including stainless steel, yellow or white gold, and two-tone watches. Particularly exclusive references are also set with diamonds. Variants of the Datejust 36 ref. 126234 are 36-mm models that are very similar to the early vintage originals.
Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M: At Home in the Water and on Land
In spring 2025, Omega is offering a very broad collection of the Aqua Terra 150M, consisting of over 140 different references. Most models have three hands for hours, minutes, and seconds as well as a date at 3 or 6 o’clock. Depending on the model and reference, the watches also have a small seconds and date at 6 o’clock. Some ladies’ models do not have a date display at all. We’ve already made it clear that the selection of designs and functions is far more extensive than with the Rolex Datejust – not necessarily a plus point in direct comparison. The choice of case sizes and materials is similar. In order to reach practically every conceivable target group, Omega offers the Aqua Terra 150M in six different case sizes between 28 and 43 mm. Stainless steel, rose and yellow gold, two-tone models, and titanium variants are available. The range of bracelets is also very large. Depending on the model and reference, this ranges from (precious) metal bracelets to rubber and leather straps. You are definitely spoiled for choice with the Aqua Terra. With the Ultra Light model made of titanium (ref. 220.92.41.21.06.001), Omega offers an Aqua Terra 150M that weighs just 55 grams. One of the classic variants made of stainless steel and with a black dial is the Aqua Terra 150M (ref. 220.10.38.20.01.004). With a case diameter of 38 mm, the model is a perfect unisex watch.
Datejust vs. Aqua Terra 150M: Quality and Craftsmanship
In terms of the quality of workmanship of the cases, bracelets, and movements, Rolex and Omega are generally on a comparably high level. Among the stainless steel models, it should be emphasized that Rolex uses so-called Oystersteel (904L stainless steel), while Omega uses regular 316L steel. Oystersteel is considered to be particularly corrosion-resistant and is also used in aviation. A Datejust is water-resistant to 100 m (328 ft, 10 bar), while the Aqua Terra 150M can withstand depths to 150 m (492 ft, 15 bar). In everyday life, however, this deviation will hardly make a difference for the vast majority of wearers. The biggest differences can be found in the caliber technology, where Omega is a good deal ahead. Why is that? In the Aqua Terra 150M, the Biel-based manufacturer uses an in-house caliber with their patented co-axial escapement. This escapement replaced the traditional Swiss lever escapement and offers significant advantages in terms of friction reduction, precision, and service intervals. Calibers such as the 8900 or 8912 are also certified as Master Chronometers by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS). This means that the watch must have a rate accuracy of 0/+5 seconds per day. Master Chronometers are also resistant to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss. Although Rolex’s caliber technology is also of the highest standard, it is not quite as modern and innovative as that of Omega. In the Datejust, the in-house movement 3235 sets the pace. Patented components such as the Chronergy escapement, a paramagnetic blue Parachom hairspring, and the Paraflex shock protection system are used. The movement is certified as a Superlative Chronometer, with a guaranteed rate deviation of -2/+2 seconds per day.
Pricing and Value Retention
Rolex and Omega have always been fierce competitors and have traditionally courted a similar target group. Even though Omega is trying to build on Rolex’s image with ever more elegant and expensive models, the manufacturer with the crown remains the eternal industry favorite. Although Omega is approaching the pricing of Rolex, the most expensive watch by far in this comparison is the Rolex Datejust Pearlmaster 86409RBR, which was trading on Chrono24 for over $170,000 at the beginning of 2025. By way of comparison, the most expensive Aqua Terra 150M at the same time was the white gold model with the reference number 220.55.38.20.99.003. This watch is available for “just” $75,000, which is not far off its list price of $73,600.
Rolex Datejusts are practically always priced above the MSRP, while the Aqua Terra 150M can usually be found for less. The latter is probably also due to the fact that Aqua Terra 150M models are much more readily available than Datejust models. The scarce availability of the Datejust is known to create price spirals that are decoupled from the actual value of the watches and end up in speculative territory. Whether this is intentional or not, it is undisputed that the value retention of the Datejust is far better than that of the Aqua Terra 150M models.
Final Thoughts
Datejust vs. Aqua Terra 150M or Rolex vs. Omega. In terms of quality, both watches and brands are practically on the same level, with Omega scoring over Rolex with its more sophisticated co-axial movement technology. In terms of prestige and value retention, however, the Aqua Terra 150M in no way comes close to the reputation of the Datejust. This is hardly surprising, as the Datejust has been an icon for 80 years, while the Aqua Terra 150M has only just emerged.
