Slowly but surely, 2024 is drawing to a close. What better time could there be to review this exciting year in watchmaking? But this time, for once, I don’t want to talk about the crowd favorites. Instead, I’m going to focus on the watches that received much less attention in 2024 and flew under the radar of both watch fans and the press. Were these new watches on your radar? Or have you only noticed them in passing?
Too glamorous? The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Moonshine & Sedna Gold
It’s hard to imagine, but in 2024 Omega once again managed to bring new variants of its legendary Moonwatch to the market. With the white version of the Speedmaster Professional and a brand-new “First Omega in Space,” the luxury watch manufacturer from Biel/Bienne landed two genuine watch hits that were the talk of the town in 2024 and caused a storm of enthusiasm among watch enthusiasts. In contrast, the two two-tone versions of the legendary Moonwatch in Moonshine Gold and Sedna Gold received little attention. Their basic structure is unchanged: The iconic case and magnificent bracelet are shared by these two versions – but the dial, bezel, and middle section of the bracelet shine in a completely new light thanks to gold elements in Moonshine and Sedna Gold. But maybe that was just too much for die-hard Moonwatch fans in the end? In my opinion, a legendary tool watch like the Speedmaster Professional is much more appealing in steel than in gold or two-tone steel and gold. What do you think? Are you a purist? Or would you prefer a little gold shimmer in your Moonwatch?
More on the dark side of the moon in 2024: the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonshine & Sedna Gold
Not new enough? The Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126710GRNR “Bruce Wayne”
It’s been several years since the popular Rolex GMT-Master II in black was discontinued. In 2024, the Rolex watch made a small comeback, if only symbolically. The new Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126710GRNR is reminiscent of its spiritual ancestor thanks to the lettering on the dial, but differs from it in a few other respects. The most obvious difference is the black and gray bezel that replaces the solid black bezel. A partially polished Oyster bracelet is also included in the new GMT version, but the option of using a Jubilee bracelet as an alternative is new. This gives the new version of the classic a different, albeit subtle, touch. Watch fans were initially very enthusiastic about the new GMT watch, but the buzz around the new Rolex GMT-Master II – nicknamed the “Bruce Wayne” – died down over the course of the year. I find the other colorful variations much more exciting than this one. However, that doesn’t mean the watch is a shelf warmer. This version of the Rolex GMT-Master II is very popular with watch lovers and currently changes hands for roughly $17,800.
Too colorful? The Breitling Navitimer Automatic 41
From the Navitimer to the Avenger to the Chronomat: The Swiss luxury watchmaker Breitling has been more colorful than ever in recent years. Bright dial colors are the order of the day, and the traditional manufacturer is not above using color in the design of its icons. Although it doesn’t have a chronograph function, the new Breitling Navitimer Automatic 41 is instantly recognizable as a Navitimer thanks to its iconic slide-rule bezel. This is another opportunity for Breitling to be colorful. The 2024 steel version offers a choice of green, blue, and ice blue dials. Of course, this more formal version of the Breitling Navitimer also features the signature seven-row link bracelet. Although this Breitling innovation can be described as a success, in 2024 it flew completely under the radar of watch lovers and the press. With a market price starting at around $4,200, the little brother of the legendary Breitling Navitimer is a great alternative for anyone with a budget of around $5,000 looking for an all-rounder with a Navitimer look.
Icon With a Fresh Coat of Paint: The NOMOS Tangente 38 Date Limited Edition 175 Years Watchmaking
The NOMOS Tangente was one of the Glashütte-based brand’s first models and is now considered an icon. As part of the 175th anniversary of watchmaking in Glashütte, the minimalist watch was launched in 31 new, sometimes striking color combinations. Each version is limited to 175 pieces and has all the features that characterize a NOMOS Tangente: The minimalist case and dial design are present, as are the off-center seconds and the date at 6 o’clock. Along with the new dial colors, the Tangente also attracts attention with a new gray NATO strap, made exclusively for NOMOS in France. This combination makes the new variants a cheeky accessory. The back of the watch is also a highlight, offering a breathtaking view of the beautifully crafted DUW4101 hand-wound movement. There’s just one small drawback: The watch doesn’t have a quick-set date. Despite its flashy appearance, this watch flew well under the radar of watch fans and the press in 2024. However, thanks to the strict limitation of each model, it could be of interest to watch collectors. Some models are already selling for more on the open market than the original list price of around $2,000.
Patent-Protected World Premiere: The Patek Philippe World Time 5330G
Recently the traditional manufacturer Patek Philippe caused quite a stir among watch enthusiasts with the launch of the Cubitus. Patek Philippe’s new sports model is dividing the watch world like never before. It’s no wonder that a different Patek Philippe model has gone relatively unnoticed – namely, the white gold Patek Philippe World Time 5330. Originally a limited edition, the timepiece is now part of the current collection and features a patented world first: Its date display is synchronized with the local time and coincides with the time zone, which is located at 12 o’clock on the local disc and displayed in the center. Admittedly: The fact that this exciting new watch flew under the radar in 2024 might have something to do with its list price of $76,590. It’s only intended for big spenders.
