The Cartier Santos is one of the most historic and iconic timepieces in the world. Thanks to a large presence on social media and good price stability, the Cartier watch has become one of the most popular watch models in recent years. In this article, I present the modern, large version of the Santos and explain all the relevant aspects – from design, dimensions, and quality to technology, advantages, disadvantages, and prices. Because at the end of the day, the question needs to be answered: Is the Cartier Santos still a worthwhile purchase, or is this classic now obsolete?
Cartier Santos: The Design and Its History
The Cartier Santos impresses fans with its exceptional design and a long history dating back to 1904. The inventor and aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont found it difficult to read the pocket watches commonly used at the time during his airship journeys. That led his friend Luis Cartier to develop a watch for him that was suitable for aviation and was worn on the wrist. Cartier completed the “Santos” for Dumont, creating the world’s first pilot’s wristwatch to accompany him on his future flying adventures. Starting in 1911, the Cartier Santos went into serial production and was thus freely available – the rest is history. The large version brings this iconic watch into the modern age without losing the essence of the original. The purist model with a white dial, the colored versions, and the model with an anthracite dial all add modern elements to the classic design. The rectangular case with rounded corners and the dial with striking Roman numerals remain true to the original design. The variant with a DLC-coated bezel is worth a closer look: A special sunburst effect gives the traditional aesthetic a contemporary touch. Instead of the typical royal blue spinel on the crown, you’ll find a black stone, which underlines the exclusivity of this version.
Dimensions
Despite its unusual case shape, the Cartier Santos is a modern all-rounder that can be worn both as a dress watch and in everyday life. The case length is 47.5 mm, the case width is 39.8 mm, and the case height is 9.38 mm. This watch is remarkably slim and wears excellently on the wrist, similar to other modern all-rounders such as the Rolex Datejust or the Patek Philippe Nautilus. On a wrist that is 17 cm wide, the watch looks large, but it fits. The case shape fits comfortably on the wrist and makes a statement without appearing too bulky. However, the watch may look too large on wrists under 17 cm. If your wrist is 16.5 cm or smaller, it is advisable to choose the medium model, which is closer to the original design.
Cartier Santos: The Technology
The unique design of the case, dial, and strap makes the Santos highly recognizable and appealing to look at. But what about the technology? Cartier is better known to the public for fine jewelry than for its watches – but don’t be fooled here. The built-in automatic caliber 1847 MC is an in-house movement that offers a date function and is anti-magnetic up to 1,200 gauss. A power reserve of 40 hours may seem a little low by today’s standards, but the water resistance of 100 meters is a decisive feature. The Cartier Santos is robust and suitable for everyday wear, so it can be worn for a variety of activities. Of course, it also makes use of sapphire crystal. The way in which Cartier combines a traditional look with modern technology is particularly evident in the bracelet. While other traditional watch manufacturers such as Rolex or Patek Philippe often resist useful features that make everyday life easier, Cartier offers a variety of innovations: The bracelet can be changed without tools thanks to a quick-switch system and the Smartlink system also allows the length of the bracelet to be adjusted without tools. This demonstrates that tradition and innovation do not have to be mutually exclusive. The comfort that Cartier offers buyers here is exemplary and makes it all the more pleasant to try out the alternative rubber strap that comes with the watch.
Cartier Santos: The Quality
When buying a watch like the Cartier Santos, quality is very important. After all, we all work hard for our money, don’t we? The quality of the Cartier Santos is first class and comparable to other renowned watch brands in this price segment. The watch not only feels very comfortable when worn, but also in the hand. The mix of steel (including polished and brushed parts) and, depending on the variant, a DLC coating is impressive across the board. The case and bracelet are superbly crafted and offer exactly what watch enthusiasts expect from a luxury watch – it provides an excellent wearing experience and is a real feast for the eyes. Does the Cartier Santos scratch quickly? Yes, it does, but that’s also true of other icons such as the Rolex Datejust or any watch with a polished bezel. However, this does not diminish the value of the watch; an even patina gives even a fine luxury watch like the Cartier Santos additional character. The variant with a DLC-coated bezel, on the other hand, is relatively scratch-resistant.
Cartier Santos: The Price Performance
How does the legendary aviation icon fare when it comes to price performance? Cartier has gained enormous popularity as a manufacturer in recent years and is currently the talk of the town among watch lovers. Particularly popular: the Cartier Santos. While the Cartier all-rounder enjoyed an increase in value of around 5% in 2024, since 2020 it has appreciated by a remarkable 33%. With a price of around $6,500 for recent used models, this watch is also suitable for beginners who only have a limited budget.
Cartier Santos: The Bottom Line
With a list price of around $9,400, the Cartier Santos is priced similarly to many other luxury watch icons from other watch brands. The large versions without the DLC bezel or the medium model without the date are under $9,200, making them even more affordable. Recent preowned models are available on the open market from around $6,500. However, the most important question is: Is the legendary Cartier still relevant today and worth buying? My answer: As the world’s first pilot’s watch, the Cartier Santos has an incredible and exciting history. It has a unique design that has been perfectly translated into the present day and which you will not find a second time. It offers great quality and, unlike many other luxury watch brands that almost seem to resist such things, some practical innovations that enhance the wearing experience enormously. The Cartier Santos is a watch that has lost none of its appeal in 2025, and this is unlikely to change in the coming years.
