The Rolex Submariner is probably the most legendary luxury watch of all time. Since it was first presented in 1953, its design has remained almost unchanged. This is one of the reasons why it has lost none of its popularity over the years. However, connoisseurs know exactly which of the finer details distinguish Submariners of different generations. The dial is the most discussed aspect of the timepiece. In this article, we’re taking a closer look at some of our favorite dials. Despite the consistency of the design, Rolex has developed a number of different versions of the Submariner over the years. The crown was installed in different sizes, sometimes with and sometimes without a crown guard. There were models with so-called gilt dials, some had a date display, while others did not. The list could go on and on. For easier identification, Rolex fans have given the various models and dials nicknames. Rolex rarely publishes quantities of particular pieces – another aspect of the mystery surrounding this historic brand. Let’s take a closer look at a selection of the most interesting Submariner dials. Before you start wondering: We have deliberately refrained from quoting specific prices here, as they can vary greatly – especially for these models – depending on the rarity of the dial or model, the condition of the watch, and the scope of delivery.
The Two-Liner Dial
The Two-Liner got its nickname thanks to the two lines of text on the lower half of the dial. When it was launched in 1953, the Submariner ref. 6204 only had a single line of text with the name of the model on the dial. A little while later, the ref. 6536/1 appeared, in which the water resistance can be read in an additional line: “100/330.” Both the Rolex logo and the “Oyster Perpetual” inscription have remained an integral part of all Submariner dials from the very beginning. 
In 1956, Rolex introduced the so-called Big Crown ref. 6538. This watch is perhaps better known to some as the original Bond Submariner. Sean Connery wore this reference in his role as James Bond in the 1962 film Dr. No – and created a legend in the process. It was also the first Submariner with a Four-Liner version in addition to the Two-Liner. The Four-Liner ref. 6538 had the inscription “200m = 660ft / Submariner / Officially Certified / Chronometer.” Rolex subsequently produced Two-Liner and Four-Liner variants with different inscriptions. These indicated the improved water resistance and displayed the “Superlative Chronometer / Officially Certified” certification. 
Two-Liner refers primarily to two specific Submariner models: the ref. 14060, which was produced from 1990 to 2002, and its successor, the ref. 14060M. The latter was introduced in 2002 and produced exclusively as a Two-Liner until 2007. After the watch successfully passed the strict chronometer certification, Rolex added two new lines in 2007: “Superlative Chronometer / Officially Certified.” Production of the watch was discontinued in 2012. The popularity of references 14060 and 14060M comes down to their similarities with the classic Submariner models from the 1960s. They are, therefore, also known as the last of the classic Submariners.
The Double-Name Dial or Tiffany Dial
The so-called Tiffany dial does not belong to a specific Rolex. In the late 1950s, the famous New York jeweler, Tiffany & Co. and Rolex joined forces to sell watches bearing both company names. It seems a logical cooperation, considering that both brands are among the most important names in the luxury goods sector. Tiffany & Co. put their logo on all Rolex watches they sold in their Fifth Avenue store. Dials with the Tiffany logo are therefore not exclusive to the Submariner. 
In the case of the dual-branded Submariner, “Tiffany & Co.” was added above the model name. The result was a dial with five lines of text above 6 o’clock. Rolex and Tiffany & Co. stopped working together around 1990. Since then, the demand for Submariners with a Tiffany dial has been on the rise.
The Tropical Dial
So-called Tropical dials also appear on multiple Rolex models. These dials actually get their nicknames as a result of a production error. A minor chemical imperfection causes these dials to change color due to environmental factors, i.e., exposure to UV rays. 
Tropical dials change color beautifully from black to brown. Each dial is unique and irreplaceable. When viewed in daylight, the dials change between shades, depending on the light. Some dubious watch dealers try to imitate the effect and thus increase the value of the watches. These dial are forgeries. It is therefore important to pay attention to the originality of the dial when buying any watch.
The Maxi Dial
The term Maxi dial actually refers to a series of dials used in the Submariner ref. 5513. There are five different Maxi dials, from the Mk1 to the Mk5. The Maxi dial series ran from 1976 to 1984. Before we look at what sets these dials apart, let’s look at what they have in common. 
Each of the Maxi dials has extra-large hour indices for optimum readability, especially under water. As the Submariner is a diver’s watch, particular emphasis was placed on legibility. Another common feature is the revised Rolex crown, which widens from bottom to top. There is a debate among collectors as to whether the Open Six in the water resistance labeling is located on all Maxi dials or only on certain ones. This is often not visible to the naked eye. Let’s look at the differences: On the Mk1, the water resistance can be read above the “Submariner” model name. On all subsequent Maxi dials, it is the exact opposite. Other differences are the fonts used and the placement and size of the “Submariner” lettering. Overall, Maxi dials have more in common than not. Nevertheless, it is exciting to look at the finer details.
The Explorer Dial
A very rare variant of the Submariner that hardly anyone knows about is the Explorer dial. This variant has Arabic numerals arranged at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. Of course, this Submariner has no date and is therefore similar to the Rolex Explorer. This rare variant is known under the ref. 6200, and was released in 1954. The hour hand is also much longer than on later Submariner models and, as with the ref. 6538, we find a big crown without a built-in crown guard. It is impossible to say with certainty how rare this specimen is. However, there is talk of just a few hundred pieces, which naturally adds to the mystery and desirability among collectors.
Incidentally, the size of this Submariner is also rather unusual at 37 mm – although many fans of the brand would delight in a smaller “Little Sub.” There are rumors swirling that a smaller version could be presented at Watches and Wonders 2025. Only time will tell…
The Green “Hulk” Dial
Although the Hulk is not a rare vintage model with a noteworthy manufacturing error, we believe that this dial variant nevertheless belongs in this lineup. Because the green version of the Submariner is a cult classic. The ref. 116610LV was introduced in 2010 and produced until 2020, before being replaced by the ref. 126610LV. It obviously owes its nickname to its striking green dial and green bezel. Green also makes an appearance on other Rolex models, such as the Datejust and Oyster Perpetual, all of which are popular variants.
For a long time, the ref. 116610LV was considered “the watch for investors” and was often given as the poster child for the rapid appreciation of certain watches, especially Rolex. For a long time, the dial variant was almost unfavorable among collectors who were reluctant to view watches as purely investment goods. But now that the market has cooled somewhat, and many investors have been flushed out of the market, the Hulk is making a comeback as a collector’s item.
The Red Sub
One of the most legendary Submariner dials is the Red Sub. This watch – the ref. 1680 – was the first Submariner with a date display at 3 o’clock. A Cyclops lens magnifies the display, making it easier to read. Whether this is really important under water is open for debate. It is clear that the purists among Submariner fans prefer models without a date display. Nevertheless, the Submariner Date is more sought-after today than the models without a date. 
While many modern Submariners also have an enlarged date display, the ref. 1680 stands out from other models with a small splash of color. The “Submariner” inscription is red, which contrasts nicely with the white text and black background. The watch was manufactured from approximately 1969 to 1973. As is so often the case with Rolex, the years of production are only an estimate. It is also said to have been produced from 1966 or until 1975. Whatever the case, it is certain that this model plays an important role in the history of the Submariner. As mentioned, this is not a complete run-down of all the different Submariner dials. If you’re curious for more, there is a lot of industry literature on the topic. Perhaps you’ll discover a new favorite! However, it won’t be cheap; the Submariner is one of the most legendary watches of all time.
