Have you ever wondered what the most popular watches in the world are? Most of you will probably guess this one right and say that dive watches are the most popular watches currently out there. If we look at all the new watches that come out, that doesn’t come as a surprise. We see new dive watches from different brands pop up every single day. Why is that? The main reason is that dive watches are the perfect daily watches. They were developed to withstand tough underwater conditions and focus on displaying all the necessary info as clearly as possible, which makes it easy to read the time and the remaining dive time – a feature that only the real divers among us might have used.
However, dive watches are a relatively new category of watches. The first waterproof watches were more or less “dustproof” rather than waterproof. Rolex introduced its water-resistant Oyster case in 1926, and Omega followed in 1932 with its Omega Marine, one of the first wristwatches that could actually be used in the water. But it wasn’t until 1953, when Blancpain introduced its Fifty Fathoms, that we first saw a modern dive watch as we know it today with a rotating dive bezel.
The year after, Rolex introduced its first Submariner. It’s the watch that has gone on to set the standard for dive watches in both design and functionality. It has made the Rolex Submariner the most popular dive watch in the world today. But if we look back, what are the five most collectible vintage dive watches? We have picked five watches that are part of the great dive watch legacy. They might not always be the most popular options, but they are definitely worth checking out because of their history and relatively affordable prices.
Rolex Submariner
A list like this has to start with the Rolex Submariner. As already mentioned, it is the most popular dive watch. Its legacy started in 1954 with the Submariner ref. 6204. Five years later, with the introduction of the ref. 5512, the Submariner increased in size and changed in appearance to the watch we know today. Over seven decades later, the current Submariner ref. 124060 still looks very much like the first Submariners.
When it comes to your best picks for a vintage Submariner, it all depends on your budget. If you want a proper classic, look for a vintage ref. 5512. It was produced from 1959 to 1980 and represents that prime vintage feel. Prices for those start at roughly EUR 12,000 and move up to EUR 40,000 for the proper old ones in good condition. If you want to spend less, check out the ref. 14060 that was produced from 1990 to 1999, and you can buy it between EUR 7,000 and EUR 10,000. It will buy you a great vintage Submariner that is part of the world’s most famous dive watch legacy.
Omega Seamaster Ploprof
The Omega Seamaster 300 would be a logical next pick, but we decided to go for something different and more affordable. On top of that, Ploprof is a legendary name among professional divers. The Omega Seamaster Ploprof is a quirky-looking dive tool that was developed with the help of professional divers from the famous French Comex dive team. The result is a seemingly asymmetrical chunk of a watch that was introduced in 1971 and stayed in production until 1979. During its production run, it was not a commercial success, but it became a legendary tool watch respected by watch fans worldwide. The quirky case, with its large red button to unlock the dive bezel and huge screw-in crown, has become a design classic that you can pick up between EUR 6,000 and EUR 15,000.
Also, check out the modern Omega Seamaster Ploprof that the brand produced between 2009 and 2019. This watch looks even better in terms of proportions and colors while not forgetting its hardcore diving roots. As a result, you get a brilliant version that will go on to become a true classic and can be yours between EUR 7,000 and EUR 10,000.
Seiko 6159-7001
Another brand with a rich diving legacy is Seiko. The Japanese brand has created many standout dive watches that are proof of Seiko’s dedication to creating the best diving tools. What if I told you that you can buy one of the brand’s most famous classics under EUR 5,000? Seiko introduced its 6159-7001 in 1968, and it introduced the case style that has defined Seiko’s dive watch style to this day. Seiko uses its 1968 Diver, as the brand calls it, to base a lot of its designs on.
What makes it so special? It introduced an oversized 44mm case with sharp angular lines and a dial and bezel with large markers and numerals that are easy to read. The watch was also powered by one of Seiko’s signature Hi-Beat movements for greater accuracy. Essentially, this was an outstanding dive tool in the late 1960s that has gone on to shape the brand’s catalog to this day. You can buy this classic Seiko 6159-7001 between EUR 3,500 and EUR 6,000.
Doxa Sub 300T
Another legendary dive brand is Doxa. The Swiss brand became a household name within the world of diving with its Sub 300T after it was first introduced in 1967. It’s a watch that was co-developed and worn by the famous diver and ocean explorer Jacques Cousteau. He and his team of divers could often be seen wearing the watches in the documentaries with their characteristic cushion-style case and bright orange dials. The orange dials ensured better readability at great depths.
It has given Doxa a great name among watch fans, and the brand is still around today with a varied collection of dive watches. But you can get a vintage Doxa Sub 300T that started this famous series of dive watches between EUR 2,000 and EUR 4,500. That is a very reasonable price for such a great classic.
Tudor Submariner
Ever since Tudor’s rise to prominence in 2012, collectors have also jumped on the brand’s vintage pieces. One of the most famous classic timepieces the brand created is the Tudor Submariner. It obviously looks like the Rolex Submariner, as it used the case, crown, and bracelets from Rolex. However, there are also some key differences in design that make some of the classic references signature Tudor classics.
Tudor famously had a partnership with the Marine Nationale or the French Navy. After having used their Tudor Submariners for some time, they asked for some design adjustments. The most important was to create larger hands and hour markers for better underwater readability. That’s when Tudor introduced its famous snowflake hands and rectangular markers that define the brand’s style to this day. The Tudor Submariner ref. 7016 introduced this famous style that you can buy starting at EUR 7,000 and moving up to EUR 20,000. The follow-up ref. 9401/1 is another great option but has become rather expensive, between EUR 10,000 and EUR 25,000. But that will buy you one of the watch industry’s most legendary dive watches.
