The crown is not only an extremely important component of wristwatches and pocket watches, it also gives them their characteristic look. For us, the crown is such an essential part of a watch that models without a visible crown seem somehow incomplete. Yet, despite its importance, most watch enthusiasts rarely stop to think about the crown. That’s why we want to give this often-overlooked component the attention it deserves in this article.
What is a watch crown?
The watch crown, or winding crown, is one of the most important operating elements of a wristwatch. It enables the wearer to control functions in the movement. It consists of the actual crown – the button-like wheel that you typically find on the side of the case – and the winding stem, which extends deep into the movement. It is interesting to note that, despite its connection to the inner workings of the watch, the crown is traditionally considered part of the case.
Watch Crown Functions
As mentioned above, the crown of a watch has several functions. The exact number of functions depends on the watch and its caliber. The most important functions are:
- Setting the time: You can pull out and turn the crown to move the hands of the watch to set the exact time.
- Winding the watch: Watches that offer manual winding can be wound with the crown. When the crown is turned, the mainspring in the barrel is tensioned.
- Setting complications: If your watch has additional complications such as a date, day of the week, or moon phase display, you can often set them with the crown.
The crown offers several positions you can pull it out to, to access the various functions. For example: On a three-hand watch with a date display, you can wind the watch with the crown in the home position, set the date in the first pull position, and correct the time in the second position.
What watches have a crown?
The crown has been found on pocket watches and wristwatches with mechanical movements since the end of the 19th century. But most quartz watches with an analog display also have one. Even modern smartwatches usually have a crown.
The History of the Crown
At the beginning of the 19th century, pocket watches were usually still wound and adjusted with a separate key. However, this method was quite cumbersome and the key often got lost. Thus, the foremost watchmakers of the time worked diligently on the development of a keyless system. Between 1820 and 1847, the English watchmaker Thomas Prest, the Louis Audemars company, and Charles Antoine LeCoultre introduced crown-wound watches. One particularly interesting system from 1830 was designed by Antoine Louis Breguet, which in turn served as the basis for the design by Jean Adrien Philippe – business partner of Antoine Norbert de Patek – a few years later. Much of Philippe’s design can still be found in modern crowns today.
Most Common Crown Shapes
Over time, different crown shapes have developed, which often provide information about the watch type or brand to which the model belongs. The most popular crown shapes are:
- Straight or cylindrical crown: Probably the most popular yet quite simple crown shape is the straight or cylindrical crown. This type of crown is used by almost every manufacturer, including Rolex.
- Onion crown: The onion crown gets its name from its rounded shape and the fluting, which resembles an onion. This crown is often used on pilot’s watches like the Lindbergh hour-angle watch from Longines.
- Cone crown: The cone crown is a close relative of the onion crown. It’s also usually fitted with non-slip fluting, but tapers towards the case. Pilots appreciate the feel of the distinctive conical crown, which is easy to operate even when wearing gloves. A prominent example of a watch with a conical crown is the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch.
- Crown with cabochon: A cabochon is a gemstone with a specific cut. The underside of the stone is flat, while the top is curved and unfaceted. A crown with a cabochon is decorated with a small gem or glass stone. You can find cabochon crowns on Cartier watches, for example.
- Crown with integrated pusher: Some crowns are equipped with an additional pusher that significantly increases its functionality. This crown shape is most frequently found on so-called “monopusher” chronographs. On these watches, you can use the crown to wind the watch, set the time and date, and start, stop, and reset the chronograph. The IWC Portugieser Handwound Monopusher Edition Laureus Sport For Good is a prime example of a watch that has a crown with an integrated pusher.
- Recessed crown: The most inconspicuous crown shape is probably the recessed crown, which is integrated into the case and therefore barely visible. Such crowns are often found on watches from the Japanese manufacturer Seiko.
The positioning of the crown not only plays an aesthetic role, but a practical one, too. For example, some watches have the crown at 2 or 4 o’clock instead of the classic 3 o’clock position. The idea is that the crown presses less on the back of the hand and is better protected from knocks. There are also models where the crown is positioned at 9 o’clock. This is particularly pleasing for left-handed watch fans.
The Crown as the Weak Point of a Watch
For all its usefulness, the crown is also one of a watch’s greatest weaknesses. It’s easy for dirt and water to get into the interior of the watch via the crown. For this reason, watch manufacturers take various measures to protect their models. In 1926, Rolex used a screw-down crown on its models for the first time and thus introduced one of the first water-resistant watches. When the crown is screwed in, a gasket on the inside of the crown is pressed against the case. This ensures that neither moisture nor dirt can penetrate the watch at this critical point. Another way to ensure that the crown is as hermetically sealed to the case is to use a crown guard, such as those found on the Omega PloProf or the Panerai Luminor. In this case, a bracket is used to press the crown firmly onto the case. At the same time, it offers good protection against knocks and impacts.
Other manufacturers seal their timepieces with one or more gaskets in the crown, for example. The amount of water pressure your watch can withstand ultimately depends on how much effort is put into the crown. It’s important to be familiar with your watch’s water-resistance so that you can enjoy your watch for many years to come.
Summary
We hope we’ve been able to give you a better understanding of the crown as an integral part of the wristwatch. In our series on watch parts, you’ll also find articles on watch hands and information on different case shapes.
