A quick look at our favorite new releases from Patek Philippe at Baselworld 2018.
Nautilus Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5740/1G-001
This new Patek Philippe is a great example of what happens when you combine two of the most desirable elements in the entire watch industry: You create a grail watch. As the name of this model implies, the manufacturer took its legendary Nautilus and added one of the four true grand complications: a perpetual calendar.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus
For decades, the Patek Nautilus has been an icon of fine watchmaking. However, it’s become much more than that: It’s a phenomenon. The “simple” time and date-only model is as coveted and rare as the Rolex Daytona. You have to wait several years or pay almost double the official list price on the secondary market if you want one. Together with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Nautilus defines the luxury sports watch genre.
Apart from all the hype and the premium prices, it’s also simply a fantastic timepiece. The elegant design is exactly the same as it was over 40 years ago. The Nautilus remains cool but understated.
The Nautilus Perpetual Calendar
A perpetual calendar always displays the correct day, date, and month (and in this case also the moon phase and the leap year), no matter if the month is 30, 31, 28 or 29 days long. In a mechanical watch, this demands a highly complex mechanism that very few watchmakers are able to create. With this new model, Patek Philippe has created the “Über”-Nautilus: a slim and very classic luxury sports watch with one of watchmaking’s most complicated functions.
Facts & Details:
- Diameter: 40 mm
- Thickness: 8.42 mm
- Case Material: White gold
- Dial: Blue
- Water resistance: 60 meters (197 ft)
- Strap/bracelet: Integrated white gold bracelet
- Functions: Hours, minutes, 24-hour display, perpetual calendar with day, date, month, leap year indicator and moon phase
- Power reserve: 38-48 hours
- Winding: Automatic micro-rotor
- Price: approx. 110,000 USD
Grand Complication Minute Repeater World Time Ref. 5513 R
A minute repeater wristwatch is a work of pure art, and the new Patek Philippe Ref. 5513 R goes even further with the addition of a world time function, which can chime the local time in any of the 24 time zones.
A Very Special Minute Repeater
Just like a perpetual calendar, a tourbillon, or a double chronograph, a minute repeater is extremely difficult to create. What puts this piece on another level (even by Patek Philippe standards) is the integration of a world time function. There have been minute repeaters with world time displays before, but the mechanism wasn’t integrated. Instead of the local time, they only chimed your home time. Clearly, this is one of Patek’s mega complication watches that will only be produced in extremely low numbers.
Looking more closely, we can see that the grail status of this watch is also reflected in its design. For example, in the center of the dial, there is a colorful cloisonné enamel painting showing the landscape as viewed from Lake Geneva. Enamel is only used for the most exclusive pieces because it’s very demanding to produce. The lugs are skeletonized, and the case and slide piece are decorated with a hand-made hobnail pattern.
Even though this piece surely wasn’t created for mere mortals, it’s not just a billionaire’s toy. Watches like this are proof of why Patek Philippe is considered the king of fine watchmaking. There is a worthy contender from Germany, but the family-owned company from Geneva is well prepared.
Facts & Details:
- Diameter: 42 mm
- Thickness: 11.49 mm
- Case material: Rose gold
- Dial: German silver, rose gold and cloisonné enamel
- Water resistance: Case protected against dust and moisture, not water resistant
- Strap/bracelet: Chocolate brown alligator leather
- Functions: Hours, minutes, world time, minute repeater (hour strike coordinated with local time zone)
- Power reserve: 48 hours
- Price: approx. 520,000 USD
